Indoor flowers are a welcome sight when winter is at its darkest. Most people have heard of forcing bulbs in the cold months but forget about the spring-blooming shrub and tree branches that are just as easy to use. Like magic, the dormant buds on branches are awakened in our warm, and humid homes.
Time to Cut
When the buds begin to swell inside the scales, it’s time to cut the branches for forcing. The limbs at the top of the plant will flower the best. They have the most flower buds to begin with, plus the buds are closely spaced, making the blossoms fuller on the branches.
Remember to remove the scales from the buds of pussy willows. Also, when the tips are full and furry on these branches empty the vase of water or the stems will root, dropping the buds.
Two Methods of Forcing
The Cold Method
- Cut branches from tree or shrub at a sharp angle.
- Place the branches into a pail of cold water in a garage, store room or other cold room for two days.
- Fill clean vases with cool water, re-cut branches and arrange in vase full of fresh water.
- Bring bouquet indoors to enjoy.
The Warm Method
- Place cut branches in bath temperature water ( 90 – 110 degrees).
- Wrap branches and container in sheets of plastic.
- Set in a warm room overnight.
- Re-cut and arrange in clean vase of fresh water.
With either method, before using any container to force, wash it well and add a little chlorine bleach in the final rinse. The water levels in the arrangements need to be watched, as well. The branches transpire (lose water) as they develop and water will need to be added a couple of times a week. If the water and vase are kept very clean, flower-keeping chemicals are not necessary.
Of course, the third way to force branches is simply to stick them in water, and in a sunny place. They will eventually bloom, but the other methods give you some control of the time frame.
The Plant List
Below is a list of flowering trees and shrubs that work well for forcing. From bud stage to bloom depends on when you cut them from the plant, so included is an approximate time table that make it possible to have blooming branches from late winter to mid spring.
- Forsythia – Cut in early January, forcing time is 1-3 weeks, blooms last 7 days.
- Flowering Plum ( Prunus spp.) – Cut in late January, forcing time is 3-4 weeks, blooms last 10 days.
- Flowering Peach (Prunus spp.) – Cut in late January, forcing time is 4-5 weeks, blooms last 7 days.
- Flowering Cherry (Prunus spp.) – Cut in January to Mid-march, forcing time is 2-4 weeks, blooms last 7-14 days.
- Flowering Pear (Pyrus spp.) – Cut in late January to mid-March, forcing time is 2-5 weeks, blooms last 7-14 days.
- Japanese Quince, Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles spp.) – Cut in February to mid-march, forcing time is 2-5 weeks, blooms last 4-7 days.
- Pussy Willow (Salix discolor) – Cut in February, forcing time is 1-2 weeks, blooms last indefinitely if allowed to dry.
- Lilac (Syringa spp.) – Cut in early March, forcing time is 4-6 weeks, blooms last 3-7 days.
- Dogwood (Cornus Spp.) – Cut in mid-March, forcing time is 2-4 weeks, blooms last 7-10 days.
- Apple, Crabapple (Malus spp.) - Cut in mid-March, forcing time is 2-3 weeks, blooms last about 7 days.
- Bridal Wreath (Spiraea prunifolia) – Cut in mid-March, forcing time is 2-3 weeks, blooms last 7-10 days.
Interested in more blooms in winter? Check out Winter-Blooming Camellias.
Chris McLaughlin - Chris McLaughlin's gardening books include "The Complete Idiot's Guide to Heirloom Vegetables." Check out her complete profile.
